Surfing near Cabuya:the breaks and where to learn
Written by Cabuya CR EditorsChecked 4 min read
In short Cabuya isn't a surf town, but there are waves close by: Playa Los Cedros and the Río Lajas mouth on the Montezuma road, and Playa Grande north of Montezuma. For consistent surf and lessons, Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa and Playa Hermosa on the west coast are the peninsula's main surf beaches.
Cabuya sits on the sheltered, gulf-facing side of the cape, so the village beach rarely gets much swell. That's part of why it's so quiet. But you don't have to go far for waves: there are breaks on the road to Montezuma, and the open Pacific coast at Mal País and Santa Teresa, one of Costa Rica's best-known surf areas, is on the other side of the hills.
Close to the village
Río Lajas mouth
Where the Río Lajas meets the sea just north of Cabuya, a beach break sometimes works when there's enough swell. It's inconsistent, so treat it as a bonus on the right day rather than something to plan around.
Playa Los Cedros
Just past the river on the road toward Montezuma, Playa Los Cedros is the closest proper surf spot to the village. It's a sandy beach with rock around it, and at low tide tide pools appear along the edges. Check conditions with locals before you paddle out, and watch for rocks.
Around Montezuma
Playa Grande
About 3 km north of Montezuma, reached by a coastal trail, Playa Grande is a long, wide beach and one of the best surf spots on this side of the peninsula. You'll need to walk in with your board, and there are no services, so bring water and food. The forest behind it is the Romelia Wildlife Refuge, and visitors can use only a strip of shade at the back of the beach.
Lessons near Montezuma
Zuma Tours in Montezuma offers surf lessons with local instructors on the beaches of Montezuma and Cabuya. Its website doesn't list levels or schedules, so contact it directly to arrange a time that suits the tide.
The west coast: Mal País and Santa Teresa
Over the hills from Cabuya, the coast faces the open Pacific and catches far more swell. This is where most surfers on the southern peninsula base themselves.
Playa Carmen
Where the road from Cóbano reaches the coast, Playa Carmen is a wide beach break suited to beginner and intermediate surfers. It's busy, with surf shops and schools nearby. Swimming isn't recommended because of the heavy surf.
Santa Teresa
About 3 km north of Carmen, Santa Teresa has a mix of point and beach breaks that are more challenging. It's a good choice for intermediate and experienced surfers. Strong rip currents run along this beach.
Playa Hermosa
North of Santa Teresa, Playa Hermosa is wide and sandy, with no underwater rocks and milder waves. It's popular for surf lessons and the friendliest of the west-coast breaks for beginners.
Mal País
South of Carmen, toward the Cabo Blanco boundary, Mal País is mostly rocky reef coast. It's better for tide pools than for learning to surf.
Lessons and board rental on the west coast
The west coast has plenty of surf schools and board rentals. Mal Pais Surf Camp, a long-running surf camp in Mal País, offers lessons and board rentals and can help with other activities. We haven't been able to confirm the current status of every surf school in the area, so check recent reviews before booking.
Getting from Cabuya to the waves
The usual route from Cabuya to Santa Teresa goes north through Montezuma and Cóbano, then down to Playa Carmen, about 1 hour in total. There's also a rough dirt road of about 7 km over the hills from Cabuya straight to Mal País. It's steep, crosses rivers and needs a 4x4, and it's usually only passable in the dry season. Don't try it in a small car or after heavy rain. See our getting to Cabuya guide.
If you're going to surf every day, staying on the west coast and visiting Cabuya for Cabo Blanco and the island walk may make more sense. See our Mal País and Santa Teresa day trip guide.
When the surf is best
The open Pacific coast at Santa Teresa and Mal País gets surf all year, and conditions change daily with the swell, wind and tide, so check a surf forecast before you go. The dry season, December to April, brings sunnier days. In the green season, rain falls mostly in the afternoons and early evenings, so mornings are usually the most pleasant time to be in the water. See the best time to visit.
Staying safe
- Learn to spot rip currents, and swim parallel to the shore if you're caught in one.
- Lifeguards are rare on this coast.
- Watch for rocks and reef, especially at low tide.
- Wear reef-safe sunscreen and a rash guard; the sun is strong.
- Don't leave valuables alone on the beach.
Frequently asked questions
Can you surf in Cabuya?
Sometimes. The Río Lajas mouth and Playa Los Cedros, just north of the village, have waves when there's enough swell. For consistent surf, go to Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa or Playa Hermosa.
Where should beginners surf near Cabuya?
Playa Hermosa and Playa Carmen on the west coast are the usual choices for lessons. Closer to Cabuya, Zuma Tours offers lessons on the Montezuma and Cabuya beaches.
How long does it take to get from Cabuya to Santa Teresa?
About 1 hour by the main route through Montezuma and Cóbano. The direct dirt road to Mal País is shorter but needs a 4x4 and is usually only passable in the dry season.
Is Playa Grande near Montezuma good for surfing?
Yes. It's one of the best surf spots on this side of the peninsula, reached by a walk of about 3 km north of Montezuma. Bring water, as there are no services.
The places in this guide
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Playa Los Cedros
Playa Los Cedros is a stretch of coast just past the Río Lajas on the road between Cabuya and Montezuma. It's best known as one of the area's better surf spots, and at…
